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Sandby Yellow Anglais

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Sandby Yellow Anglais

£330.00

Details:
– c.1750
– Gown consists of Petticoat, Outer Robe and Stomacher
– Single Robings
– Plain Sleeves with bound edges + 3 pinched pleats
– Sewn down back pleats
– Pleated skirts onto Bodice
– Plain Stomacher
– Plain Petticoat
– Hook and Eye Variation Optional

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Product Description

Yellow Linen Anglais

c.1750s

This gown and petticoat and stomacher ensemble have been based on a fab watercolour by Paul Sandby. We think the lady, who is so A study on how neck cloths or Fichus or handkerchiefs were worn in the 18th century, historical costume research - a look into georgian costume and how it was worn., historical replica costume, Hand made period clothing, reenactment csotume, bespoke garments form the 18th century, accessories of the 18th century, dress like a georgiancasually leaning against a wall, looks so incredibly normal and yet full of character that we wanted to make our very own version of her.

Obviously not all of the details in the dress are visible but working with other dresses from the mid 18th century we’ve been able to fill in the gaps.
Such as:
– This dress has a seperate stomacher – based on a dress from the V&A,
– A lacing detail (umm…nicked from another Paul Sandby sketch),
– The classic Anglais back which flows down into the skirts,
– And plain sleeves. The lady in the sketch wears hers rolled up catching the the shift up with it, so we’ve opted for leaving them plain – designed purely for rolling!
The dress also includes:
– Pocket openings hidden beneath layers of pleats,
– Single robings which end smartly with a right angle finish. The robings can be lifted up like most of the Anglais’ we’ve seen in the museums and which according to the Curator at the Totnes Fashion Museum meant easy access into pinning the robings down.

The sleeves have been put in using the same techniques as used in original dresses from this period, which features the top section of the sleeve being folded down onto the shoulder visibly. The robings then fold over this sleeve and hide it from view. (We’ve 18th century sleeve insertion, how were sleeves put in in the 18th c, made to measure undress for the 1700s, antionette costumes, georgian clothing, mid 18th century costume, what the goergians wore, the duchess clothing , period dress and how it was worn, 1750s dresses, what was fashion in the 1700s, reenactment clothing based on replicas and reproductions, HandBound historical costumes made to measure and based on originals, theatre and film costumiers, period correct historical costumeincluded a photo of this so that you can see what we are talking about.)

The petticoat is also separate and features pocket openings and self fabric making up the ties.
And the Stomacher is just a plain panel.

This whole ensemble then gets made up to your size. But please be warned; we have had to dye the linen this kind of yellow so there may well be some slight alteration to the shade – we use a Dylon colour so they tend to be pretty reliable but we just mention this in case.

Now, lets talk about pinning!
– Not all dresses, but a vast majority show no other method of fastening bar pinning or stitching. This allows an exact fit each time and as the body is well encased in the fully boned stays of the time there was no real danger of moving in a way that stabbed oneself.
– However us modern day ladies aren’t used to pinning ourselves into our gowns so we fully understand if you choose to have your gown made up with hook and eyes.
– The Hook and eyes are placed on the inside of one side of the Robing and along one side of the Stomacher. The other side is sewn together with the robing so that when you pull your gown on like a jacket your are able to flatten the stomacher over your Stays and hook it into the Robings. To get the same fit each time you will need to lace yourself into your stays with the same tightness each time, otherwise, if you decided you can tighten up a bit more one day you may well find your dress hangs a little loose – welcome to one of the benefit of pins!
But don’t panic – all of this can be discussed when ordering a version of the Sandby Dress.

How To Wear The Sandby Dress..

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Full dress of Sandby Gown

 

Very similar to all Anglais’ and Sack Backs, this style of dress was the main prototype for dresses in this period. Both the Sack Back (Robe a la Francais) and the English Gown (Robe a l’Anglais) had the same form of opening and design which was where the bodice part of the gown was designed to not meet at the CF but to come at an angle down somewhere at the side of  the bust or roughly on top of it. This angle then tended to draw nearer to the CF the further down the bodice it went and ranged from actually meeting at the CF somewhere below the waist, to still being worn several inches open. The Stomacher then was revealed beneath this opening where it was pinned flatly over the Stays. It could be laced, left plain, or have ties decorating over the top.

So, lets talk you through getting dressed:

 * 1st Stage:

– First you need to get into your underclothes. We could leave you here with this simple statement but even this isn’t as easy as it sounds. 1st off it’s not
clear from the many images and paintings of the 18th century whether or not the petticoat was worn under or over the Stays. Many of the images where a lady is in half dress she is pictured in a petticoat worn under the stays. It is often a problem that stomachers don’t sit so smoothly and flatly as they seem to supposed to when they go over the bump of the petticoat laced on over. Wearing the Stays over the petticoat would reduce that bump and leave a smooth area to dress the Stomacher onto. It could also explain why a lot (not all) of the stomachers are longer and larger than you’d imagineHow to dress an 18th c stomacher, what were stomachers,accurate historical costume made to measure and for tv film theatre and reenactment(And really not all of them – some are short and slender looking things). Modern Historians tend to dress the petticoat over the Stays (see Costumes Close Up by L.Baumgarten on p…..) which would makes sense to our understanding of corsetry being more of an underwear item. But this also fits in with the idea that lacing in a bulky petticoat would be particularly uncomfortable. This is an area we are still researching!

This is one of the moments you can tie on your pocket – you can do this over or under the petticoat. In our current understanding, it seems that the working women wore their pockets over the top of the petticoats as they had a much more functional use. Possibly wealthier ladies were able to wear them inside their hoops. Modern historians seem to place them under the petticoat.

Also tie on any additional Hip pads/Hooped Petticoats or pocket Hoops that you may be desiring to wear. With this particular dress, probably only a thick Quilted Petticoat or Hip pads would be suitable – just to give a little bit of shape. Unless you’re doing 1750’s a linen Day dress like this is unlikely to be worn with wide hoops. You can of course opt out for hip shaping as there are many working women images evidently wearing no form of hip padding.

We also advise that you put any boots or shoes that require more than just slipping into BEFORE you get into your Stays. Just keeping life simple!

* 2nd Stage:
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Back View

– Now that you are all corseted up, the next section is putting on the petticoat (unless of course you’ve already got it on!). Do this by stepping into the petticoat and bring the two back ties round to the front and fasten. Then bring the front two ties round to the back and fasten. You can gain access into your pockets through the side slits if you are wearing them in this position.

* 3rd Stage:
How to dress an 18th c stomacher, what were stomachers,accurate  historical costume made to measure and for tv film theatre and reenactment

Stomacher and Petticoat

– Over your petticoat now you are about to pin on the Stomacher. If you ordered your dress with a hook and eye option please ignore this stage.
The use of pinning is rather useful. If you fancy wearing your stays a bit looser you can. If you have put on weight; fine. If you infact feel far slimmer today then this is also fine. Because the garment is pinned on it can be taken in or let out easily enough. The pinning starts here with the putting on of the Stomacher.
Some ground rules:
– Please remember when you are trying this that this will get better with practise!
– Do not try this really without Stays on. The use of Stays means that the way you move and what you are pinning onto should generally not allow you to stab yourself! If you don’t have stays on we have a problem. The answer: probably don’t pin!
– Use as many as you feel comfortable with – not the more the better; we don’t want you setting of metal detectors, but certainly don’t only use 2!
– In the pressing in of the pins try and get a good downward motion and make sure you can come back up, out of the fabric.
– Don’t Panic! By the time you finish pinning you will soon be able to tell the ones that didn’t catch right. Just re-do them.

Place your stomacher evenly over the centre of your Stays, making it a little higher than your Stays so that it hides them, you don’t really want to be seeing the edge. It only needs to sit a little higher though, don’t go choking yourself! Once in place begin to slide pins in at either side of the stomacher, into your Stays and catching the fabric over the top of the boning. If you are wearing your petticoat over then you can also pin into the waistband easily enough.We put about 5 either side, if that helps.

* 4th Stage:

– Next is the pulling on of the robe. If you have someone helping you then this is fairly straight forward. You pull the robe on like a jacket but your The English Robe by HandBoundhelper is able to hold down the sleeves of your shift while you do this. This makes a big difference. This robe has been based on a design after the 1750s where the sleeves begin to be a bit more fitted. This means that it is hard work wriggling down the shift sleeve. If you are on your own don’t panic, we do have a solution. (Well done by the way for getting into your stays all by yourself – give yourself a pat on the back!)

What we have found useful is a piece of tape with a good quality safety pin attached to it. Please make sure it’s good quality as itHow to dress an 18th c stomacher, what were stomachers,accurate historical costume made to measure and for tv film theatre and reenactment, example of undone robings can be rather painful if it bends, breaks or comes undone while you are midway this procedure. But, very simply, once one arm has been safely put on (you tend to only need to do the one side as you can dress one half a bit more cleverly and therefore avoid the rucking), pin your shift sleeve and hold onto the rest of the tape with the same hand as the side you’ve just pinned. Slide you hand through the sleeve of your dress and and keeping the tape taut, you can then pull the sleeve up. This tautness holds the shift sleeve down from serious rucking and although you will still have to do a little bit of digging to pull the shift out all neatly, it is much, much easier.

With your robe on, next you will need to lay the robings down over the stomacher and begin to lace yourself up. Lacing for the front can be done in a variety of ways. You can straight lace yourself (as seen in some of Sandby’s drawings) or use the classic lacing in technique like a shoe (also as seen in some of Sandby’s drawings).

Once laced you will need to do a final fun bit of pinning down the robings. This is easy enough; simply lift up the robings and slide in the pins, bringing them back up again, down the fold line of the Robings. This will allow the robings to sit nice and flat. We have taken a photo with and without this final bit of pinning so that you can see why it is essential.

And voila! you are dressed.

The Yellow Sandy Anglais

c.1750s

We had great fun making this garment!

This gown has been made with a blend of modern machinery and the ye old ancient form of hand stitching. This hand sewing has not been done just antionette costumes, working womens costume for 1700s, Undress for 18th c for sale - made to measure, georgian clothing, mid 18th century costume, what the goergians wore, the duchess clothing , period dress and how it was worn, 1750s dresses, what was fashion in the 1700s, reenactment clothing based on replicas and reproductions, HandBound historical costumes made to measure and based on originals, theatre and film costumiers, period correct historical costumeworkiwto be clever or laboriously time consuming, but because it’s actually sometimes the only way to get the dress to work the same as the originals. A lot of our tears have been spent trying to figure out why a gown didn’t hang or feel just right and we have humbly discovered that a lot of it is down to good old-fashioned hand sewing. You can opt for having this gown fully hand made but price will go up by £120 and please expect delivery times to be lengthened some what…

Machine stitching covers:

– The long running stitches,
– The sewing down of the sleeves,
– The hems,
– The binding of the sleeves has been machine sewn on one side and hand stitched on the other.
– The back neck tab has also been machine stitched one side and hand felled the other.
– The pinched pleats in the sleeve,
– and the lining seams.

Hand Sewing Stitching covers:

– The basting in of the sleeves using original techniques,
– The sewing down of the Robing end onto the back.
– The side seams of the gown,
– The placing of the skirts onto the Bodice.
– The back pleats.

18th century construction of a gown, methods of sewing - historical costume, How to dress an 18th c stomacher, what were stomachers,accurate historical costume made to measure and for tv film theatre and reenactmentBased on our research of gowns from the museums (in particular Berrington, Hereford and the infallible Bath Fashion Mus) and other various Historians, we have made this gown from the lining up. This seemingly unimportant and flimsy bit of linen is almost the essential foundation to the whole dress and it gets fitted to the body and the dress placed on top. We’ll admit here that we’re not sure if all of the dresses we’ve seen have used this technique, for a long time we were unaware of it’s possibility and can now only go back over photos, but it’s certainly been used in a few and Janet Arnold mentions it in her book ‘Patterns of Fashion 1’.

The rest of the dress then gets built on top, starting with the CB. The skirts all get sewn together, remembering to leave the pockets and then the whole heavy weight gets pinned into placed and the sewing begins.

We hope you like this gown and can appreciate what we like out of these dresses; the practical beauty of such dresses….