This is the gown we made during the filming of our online course – ‘Cut & Construction of a 1730s Mantua’ so if you don’t want to take the course, you can buy it here! Made to measure and made in the cloth of your choosing, you can wear your own piece of 1730s fashion – using ALL the techniques found on the original gowns.

This gown comes in 3 parts:

• The Main Gown
• The Stomacher
• and The Petticoat

The construction techniques are based on 1 x Main original but with the imput of our mantua research – so your gown will be 100% handsewn and 100% sewn using the original mantuamaking methods found on the gowns.

The Details:

• 2 x Robings – foldable and manipulable
• Inner Linen Strip for pinning and mounting
• a plain stomacher
• a round petticoat withe CB opening
• Loop & Button for controlling the train
• Fully working train – draped to fashionable shape
• we can provide a ‘how to dress’ video call
• PLEASE NOTE you will need stays for this gown.

How This Works:

Send us an email and we can begin to go over how to get your very own, made to measure 1730s mantua.

We will walk you through your undergarments, taking your measurements, what kind of fabric you will need to find and how much. Please note – as crazy as it seems the price quoted does not include the main fabric. Fabrics can range crazily from £5 a mtr/yard to £500! Which makes it very hard to price. We also don’t know what style or colour you want so we have found the best policy is to work closely with you as you begin to search and source your own fabric. IF we have something that matches your description and you approve of the sample we send then we can provide the cloth in that situation.

We require a 25% deposit up front. We will also be sending you a measurement form to fill in which we certainly provide help with if you feel you need it. And once we have the deposit and the fabric and the measurements, we are all ready to start work on your gown. We will also agree a delivery date so that you know the deadline for receiving your gown.

Fittings: we are happy do fittings and can do them online or in person depending on how easy it is to get to you. The way a fitting will work, if not done in person, is that we will pay to send you the gown at it’s fitting stage and then we ask that you pay the postage of returning it. We are happy to do upto 2 x fittings in this manner but if you would like more then we request that you pay both sets of postage, there and back.

We have worked hard to study the originals, practise the replication process and record the techniques so you are not only getting a gown but a snippet of our research too and a real piece of accurate history reporting! We take pride in our sewing and in our research and are very happy to tell you some interesting details about your gown if you wanted to know more.

Send us an email if you have any other questions!

Replica of a Man’s Frock Coat

The original to this a heart-melting coat found in the Snowshill collection within the NT. It is absolutely gorgeous!

Made from a very dense wool, this coat would have originally been quite an outdoor, functional style of coat but obviously very much with the cut and style of a wealthy gentleman. Not only is it the cut metal buttons that speak of this, but also the elegant cut to this otherwise very practical coat.

The sample that you see here in the photo is a direct replica of the original, made using all the direct techniques found on the original.

Features:

• Mariner style cuffs with 3 x functional buttons and button holes
• Double breasted centre front with both sides featuring functioning button holes and buttons.
• Lined with linen
• Contains an inside pocket at the lower front
• Stand collar
• CB overlapping vent
• Side pleated vents with button at top
• NO front pockets

Your Coat

Made to measure to fit your exact body shape, your coat will be cut to your size but using the fashionable silhouette that the original makers were going for. This includes a high neck shape to the coat,, a curved front, quite long sleeves in comparison to modern jackets and a lowered looking waist.

Your coat will be made using 100% of the original techniques. The wool fabric of the original is dense so features raw edges at the CF, the pkt, the collar etc. The lining is then Running Stitches teeny-tinily and beautifully to the front raw edge. Your coat will feature all of this kind of detail.

The coat also features a pocket on the inside of the top of the front skirt. This is created by the bottom edge of the skirt being faced with the same wool as the main coat and along the edge of that facing a pocket is inserted.

The mariners cuff is functional and features 3 x buttons.

These buttons have been bespokely made for us, replicating the original buttons on the coat.

What to do if you want one made?

Feel free to send us an email enquiring into having a coat made. We will then discuss things like fabric, colours and quality. It is important to note that none of our garments are priced with the main fabric included as this can get very tricky with the variety of fabric prices. We encourage our customers to choose and find the main fabric themselves – we are happy to help  – especially if you describe a colour we know we may be able to get hold of, but lol, but we draw the line at scouring the internet for hours upon hours unpaid.

We are also happy to make a coat using the same fabric above – with no extra cost – but please note we only currently have enough for a smaller sized body left of the fabric.

Sold By The Metre!

Absolutely Bespoke & Replicated Fabric Created Purely For Us!

It’s 100% silk – Woven – NOT printed.

We are going to get 20 metres woven and we need 5 – 6 mts for our project so we have around 14 metres available for SALE.

Details:

• Each grey/yellow stripe is 3.5 mm wide
• The Black stripe is 3.2 mm
• The black stripe has a ridge effect to the weave
• The grey/yellow stripe has been woven to create a length ways layout of the silk fibres.
• These measurements match perfectly with original cloth
• Stripes go horizontal across the cloth – so along the weft.

Fabric width:

• 1.40 mt
• Priced per Mtr

(As far as we know lol) these 20 mtrs are the ONLY metres made like this in the world and they have been based on a 1790c coat in our own personal collection. So, this means you will be buying a fabric that is an exact a replica as can be made using modern looms – truly capturing the 1790s Dandy look with this replica, silk, striped cloth.

We will be ordering the initial 20 mts if there are no requests for more than that amount within the next few weeks. It is likely that this will be the only time we will be ordering this fabric so there is this one unique opportunity to an have made more than the 20 mts minimum. IF you would like to purchase more then please message us and we shall add it to the order.

many thanks

Also called ‘Pattern Paper’, this wide paper is designed for drafting or scaling up patterns.

This roll is 1.50 mts wide and is purchased BY THE METRE!

The gap between each dot and each cross is 1″ or 2.5 cm.

More Info (If you’re interested :))

• We use the plain side for drafting but as the dots and crosses can still be seen through it you get the best of both worlds.
• This 1″ grid is ideal for scaling up the patterns in books such as Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion – or our very own Original Garment Series.

Last Quarter of 18th Century

The original to this pair of stays can be found at the Manchester Costume Galleries and have been dated c.1775-1800. But you can have your own pair bespokely created for your own body shape and made using the original sewing techniques.

This pair of stays feature:

• Cotton Herringbone straps that go round the shoulder to pull them back and create a thrusted forward front shape.
• The straps cross over at the back and hook on at the front – as in the original.
• The decolletage is cut low and in a sweeping shape to support the fashion for this era
• That front curve is strengthened by an inner bust bone and layers of canvas around the front tab area beneath the bust
• There is added support by an inner busk sheath and for which we provide a cane busk (the original was whalebone)
• The CF opening is indeed functional and can be let out if needed – but it will only allow upto 1/2″ or 3/4″ probably at max.
• The stays are CB opening
• The  description of ‘half boned’ refers to the fact that there is space between each bone. ‘Fully boned’ denotes no space between each bone – if that makes sense.
• And finally  – the tabs are super fine and spindly on this particular style, and very much part of the design feature of this lovely pair of stays.
• The only part of this pair of stays that ISN’T made using the original methods are the boning channels. This is purely because of pricing issues and time issues. What is useful though is that the sewing machine actaully recreates the same stitch as the original makers used – a saddle stitch. (I know POF5 says its a back stitch but the stays we’ve studied and where we can see the inside have all been sewn using a saddle stitch)
• IF you would like to have the pair completely handsewn then the price would need to be requested and worked out to your size and final choice of styles details.  Lol it would be pricey!

Want to Know How This Works?

We know both how exciting AND nerve-racking it is choosing a new garment and having it made!

We are very happy to chat and explain the process in the introductory emails but before we start on the work we do ask our clients to provide a 25% deposit.  We will then also discuss how you would like to pay the remaining amount – for example we are open to payment plans and spreading the cost over the making period. Most peeps want to split it into 4 – ending with the final quarter being paid on the delivery of the product. 🙂 Please be open to chat about what you feel would best suit your circumstances.

Once we have the 25% deposit we will then also set a delivery and completion date. And if you do or don’t want a fitting as this can effect timings.

The next step, in order to create your bespoke pair of stays, is to send you a measurement form. This will need to be filled in by you unless you are near enough to our area to come to our workroom. We are able to offer an online video call if you feel you need help and there is also a video on our Youtube site that goes through each measurement. Click the link here for the : Stays Mesurement Form.

It also helps to have a picture of you – front, back and side  – which will give us a full understanding of your body shape and stance. This can just be taken with a strappy top on or something – but certainly an item of clothing that is figure hugging and provides us with the best depiction of your body shape.

The next stage will be to discuss the top fabric.

Included in the price are the inner linen layers, the lining, the straps etc etc – all the haby and lining bits that we will need to make your stays. However, due to the fact that you as the client are likely to want to choose your own fabric or colour for the surface layer – AND that prices of fabric can vary from £5 a mtr/yard to £250 (especially in the silk world!) – as a standard rule in our company, we leave the choice and purchase of this top cloth to our clients.

IF you simply like the ivory silk seen in the photo – then that too is fine. We will, at no extra cost, use the silk we have in stock. Please note this can range in quality but is currently a 100% silk dupion with minimal slub marks. If however you have a dream fabric in mind and would like to provide the silk, then the purchase of it and the delivery of it will be something we would ask you to organise.

We are also happy to discuss any variations to the style that you would like to see – though please note this may effect the final price.

Once we have your completed measurement and your choice of fabric in hand we will then commence our making and keep you updated as we proceed.

If you did request a fitting then the way this works is that we pay the postage to get the garment out to you – and we request that you pay the postage to get the garment back to us. We are happy to do this upto 2 times. If you request more fittings than that then we just ask if you would mind paying for both sets of postage.

And that’s it! After a couple emails showing you the progress of your stays we will then arrange for the final postage and the stays will make their way to you.

Any other questions, please don’t hesitate to ask!

Mid Eighteenth Century

Based on a pair of stays from the Manchester Costume Gallery this pair of stays will wrap round you a silhouette very much suitable for the mnajority of the 18th century – from the long torsos of the late 1600s, right through to the revamp of that long silhouette in the 1770s.

This pair of stays features:

• the firm front with a sweeping bust curve and which is supported by 3 inner bones as in the original
• It also has the inner front canvas support
• replica boning channel designs
• made up of 8 panels.
• It’s fully boned for that solid 18th c feel
• Made using the original techniques as can be found on the original. And this isn’t just for us to be clever and say how we’ve made it accurately – but those original construction techniques actually work superbly well in creating the right look, feel and wear.
• The only part that gets sewn by machine is the boning channels – but this is to save your pocket and bring the price down a bit –  and as the stitching is the same as achieved by hand we’re happy that you’ll still be getting that historical and accurate feel :).

Want to know how this works?

We know both how exciting AND nerve-racking it is choosing a new garment and having it made!

We are very happy to chat and explain the process in the introductory emails but before we start on the work we do ask our clients to provide a 25% deposit. We will then also discuss how you would like to pay the remaining amount – for example we can offer payment plans and spreading the cost over the making period. Most of our clients tend to split it into 4 payments, ending with the final quarter being made on delivery. Please feel free toc aht about what you feel would best suit your circumstances.

Once we have the 25% deposit we will then also set a delivery and completion date. Opting for a fitting can effect these timings so we will also discuss that.

The next step, in order to create your bespoke pair of stays, is to send you a measurement form. This will need to be filled in by you unless you are near enough to our area to come to our workshop. We are able to offer an online video call if you feel you need help AND there is also a video on our Youtube site that goes through each measurement. Click the link here for the Stays Measurement Form Video.

It also helps to have a picture of you – front, back and side – which will give us a full understanding of your body shape and stance. This can just be taken with a strappy top or something similar – but certainly an item of clothing that is figure hugging and provides us with the nest depiction of your body shape.

The next stage will be to discuss the top fabric.

Included in the price are the inner linen layers, the lining, the straps etc etc; all the haby and lining bits that we will need to make your stays. However, due to the fact that many of our clients often want to choose their own fabric or colour, as a standard rule we leave the choice and purchase of the main cloth to our clients. Fabric prices can vary (from like £5 a mtr/yard to £250!) it makes it very hard to include the price in the costings.

IF you simply like the blue cotton/wool fabric used in the photos then this too is fine, while stocks last. We will let you know if we no longer have this available but we currently have 5 mts in stock.

We are also happy to discuss any variation to the style photographed that you might like to change – though please note this may effect the final price.

Once we have your completed measurement form and your main fabric in our hands we can then commence out making! We tend to send a couple of emails along the way just to let you know our progress.

IF you requested a fitting then the way the fittings work is that we pay the postage to get the garment out to you – and we request that you pay the postage to get the garment back to us. We are happy to do this upto 2 times. If you desire more than 2 fittings then we would ask if you would mind paying for the remaining sets of postage.

And that’s it! Once the stays are completed we will alert you to a delivery date, check the delivery address and send them on their way to you!

Any other questions, please don’t hesitate to ask!

The Original Garment Series – Book One

By M.Barker

Full of our research, the construction techniques of this original 1760s gown, a pattern, and lots, lots more, our latest book takes a deep delve into the world of 18th century sewing.

“Contained within the pages of this book is a unique glimpse into a stunning c.1760s yellow nightgown.
This book studies the gown in beautiful detail. It covers everything from an examination of the 18th century sewing techniques, to an in-depth photographic study and a detailed section on how to reconstruct the gown with the techniques as seen on it today.

Finally altered at some point during the 1760s, this gown contains a microcosm of 18th century sewing techniques. Found within the fabric and folds are glimpses of early 1730s and 1740s methods, there is also evidence for at least 2 main overhauls, before the gown reaches its current state in, all the glory of the 1750s and 1760s. All of this makes for a fascinating and in-depth study of 18th century sewing skills.

The step-by-step guide features the original sewing techniques found on the gown and has been displayed with photos, illustrations, grids and references.
All designed to help the reader create their very own c.1760s night-gown.”

So, the book contains the following:

• An introduction to the history of the night-gown in general
• A Report on the gown = containing in-depth photos, stitching sizes/types for each seam and over-all measurements.
• The Patterns of the original gown + a simplified lining option
• The Order of Making – or the Instructions on how to make the gown. This comes with a step-by-step guide and plenty of photos.
• A study into the Earlier Versions of the gown
• And a look at how the gown could be used
• It also contains a bibliography
• A list of the gowns that took part in the study
• Useful and informative Endnotes
• And all in all – 178 pages of research goodliness!

The Original Garment Series:

This book is designed to be the first of a series that studies individual original garments and provides a record of the construction techniques found within. Each report will provide a pattern and a ‘How to Make’ and a look at the history and development of the garment.

Shipping:

We’ve sat down and worked out as best we can all the various postage prices for around the world. It is not cheap at the moment!!! But the main point we want to mention here is that if your country doesn’t come up as listed then please contact us and we can get a price for it and make sure it is added to one of the zones. Also, international postage prices can vary quite dramatically. We certainly don’t mind covering a small up and down amount but if the price of posting the book to your country has altered significantly then we do hold the right to cancel order or contact you to see how you’d like to proceed. Thanks for your patience in this!

This type of gown is downright popular in Undress during the 1760s, changing its look slightly from the flamboyant 1750s style with a preference to this plainer and more pleated trim. The 1760s version of the night-gown now includes straighter lines, more angular styles, longer backs and less full skirts as the fashion moves onto more natural shapes and away from hoops.

This gown comes in 3 separate pieces – the main outer gown, the petticoat and the stomacher. It is all pinned together over the stays to create that smooth, taut look and emulating how the 18th century ladies dressed.

Some of this gown’s key details are:

• The sewn down pleated back that flows into the main back skirt
• A furbelow decorated stomacher
• The robings too are decorated with the pleated furbelows
• Double ruffles at the sleeve edged with narrow furbelows
• Matching Petticoat with Furbelows and flounces

The last 2 photos are examples of how this same gown can look in other fabrics.

So, how does this work?

This gown picture here, has been made up as a sample for you to see the trimming styles, the ruffles and all its design features in 3D form. Everything down from the pleat arrangements, the robings etc has been based on originals and this gown confirms what you will be receiving in a visual manner – though obviously it will be made up in a different size.

If and when you order, there will then be a discussion about your undergarments and your measurements with these various areas explained. We will then discuss fabric – ideally a good silk is best as the better quality your silk is, the better those ruffles and trim will stay fray free! But all of this will be discussed at the early stages. Don’t worry – we like to make sure the whole process is crystal clear and easy for our clients.

(Please note the gown does not come with any undergarments provided)

Our Research

So as already mentioned in the many pages of this site, the gowns are completely constructed using original techniques. There have been many years of research and study sessions, that have been gone through to truly understand 18th century sewing, and if you order a garment from us, you will get all that knowledge and learning bundled up in your gown!

Each gown is handsewn – and not just handsewn for the sake of saying it – but handsewn because we are using the original construction methods research on the originals. We want your dress to feel real when you wear it and to look like an original gown from the museums!

The Materials:

So the main fabric of the gown is not included in the price – and is pretty much up to you as to colour, pattern and style. 🙂

From our side it is MUCH easier to sew natural fibres such as silks and linens – and you, as the customer will get a better looking garment in a better fabric – but it is truly up to you. We will discuss the amount of fabric you may need to purchase in the build up emails to having your gown as depending on size, height, trimming requirements – as this may vary.

We happily provide the linens for the lining and the rest of the haby used on the gown, including lead weights if you wanted to have that option. 🙂

The original to this gown is insane and amazing all in the same breath!

(see the history tab for a photo!)

It’s massive, yellow and with a crazy amount of trim, and our version of this gown has been designed to tame it down just a wee tad and has turned it into a sack back gown.

This gown features:

• Sack Back pleats – deep and properly done
• Trim covers the robing, the stomacher, the front edges of the skirts and the central panel of the petticoat
• The whole ensemble is made up of 3 parts – the main outer gown, the stomacher and the petticoat
• Three tiered ruffles at the sleeves
• The bodice is lined – and this gown features a lace up centre back lining.
• The gown pictured doesn’t feature lead weights in the sleeve but these can be added at request.

So, how does this work?

This gown picture here, has been made up as a sample for you to see the trimming styles, the ruffles and all its design features in 3D form. Everything down from the pleat arrangements, the robings etc has been based on originals and this gown confirms what you will be receiving in a visual manner – though obviously yours will be made up in a different size, to fit you.

When you order, we start the discussion about your undergarments, your measurements, we’ll chat fabric,  finishing dates, and any other detail that comes up.

We then require a 25% deposit up front and we’re all ago to start your garment.

(Please note that the gown does not come with any undergarments provided)

Our Research

So as already mentioned in the many pages of this site, the gowns are completely constructed using original techniques. There have been many years of research and study sessions attended in our quest to truly understand 18th century sewing, and if you order a garment from us, you will get all that knowledge and learning bundled up in your gown!

Each gown is 100% hand sewn – and not just hand sewn for the sake of saying it – but hand sewn because we are using the original construction methods as researched on the originals. We want your dress to feel real when you wear it and to look like an original gown from the museums!

The Materials:

So the main fabric of the gown is not included in the price – and is pretty much up to you as to colour, pattern and style. 🙂 The reason why it’s not included in the price is that materials like silk can range from £9 a metre to £900 and many of our clients have a specific design in mind. We help you search for your fabric and can provide websites and suggested looking places as you dig about for your perfect fabric.

Fabric wise, from our side it is MUCH easier to sew natural fibres such as silks and linens – and you, as the customer will get a better looking garment in a better fabric – but it is truly up to you. We will discuss the amount of fabric you may need to purchase in the build up emails to having your gown as depending on size, height, trimming requirements – as this may vary.

We happily provide the linens for the lining and the rest of the haberdashery used on the gown, including lead weights if you wanted to have that option. 🙂

http://https://youtu.be/vnao6ufBhU0

By Samuel Richardson

“I cannot be patient, I cannot be passive when my virtue is in danger”

Another wonderfully thought out novel – not a smooth road to love at all – but this novel reads and tells far more about 18th century ideas than a simple love story. From Mr B’s descriptive speech about how he expects his wife, to the neighbours careless attitude to a young maid entrapped by her master – much in here is interesting, eye opening and worthy of the read.