The Rev. J. Parkinson’s Collection
2023 has seen us drive up and down from Cornwall to Scunthorpe many times to study this amazing collection that once belonged to the Rev. John Parkinson.
The reverend died in 1840 and, aside of a huge amount of paperwork, some mid 19th century academic gowns and a few other bits, there was this collection of late 18th century clothing and a rather amazing trunk. In total this collection includes 19 items comprising of a pair of red leather slippers, a dressing gown, a pair of paste buckles, 6 waistcoats, 2 breeches and 8 coats – all showing fashion details ranging from somewhere between the mid 1770s to the mid 1790s.
As we are in the middle of researching late 18th century coat making for Book 2, it was the coats that first took our attention, but to study the collection as a whole soon became the main goal when the value of studying a clothing collection from such a time span. We are planning to release a paper on this collection once the study is complete.
The reverend was very much into travelling. His diaries are full of trips around the UK, but he also made 4 key journeys to Switzerland, Norway, Italy and Russia n 1780, 1781, 1783 and 1792 sequentially.
To study a collection that were all made for the same figure over a period of time, and to see what changes and what doesn’t in the pattern drafting and fashion details, gives a fascinating insight into the workings of fashion for this period. This collection is a rare opportunity to better understand a man’s choices of clothing, his decisions and the decisions of his tailor and to study a collection that spans somewhere between 15-20 years.
The collection can be found at Normanby Hall in North Lincolnshire and is part of the N.Lincs Museum services. The coats are currently on exhibition until Jan 2025 and feature snippets of facts from his travels and life can be found.
The links below take you to the photos of each of the coats and the images have been used courtesy of the N.Lincolnshire museums services & Normanby Hall. Thank you!
The List of Items: (dates as currently provided by the museum)
- 1P (1964.061.001) – Silk suit of coat and breeches – c.1790
- 2P (1964.061.005) – Velvet suit of coat and breeches – c.1790
- 3P (1964.061.008) – Wool coat – c.1790
- 4P (1964.061.002) – Silk Coat and Waistcoat – c.1790
- 5P (1964.061.101) – Satin Waistcoat – c.1792-1794
- 6P (1964.061.014) – Silk Waistcoat – c.1790
- 7P (1964.061.011) – Silk waistcoat – c.1790
- 8P (1964.061.013) – Silk waistcoat – c.1790
- 9P (1964.061.012) – Silk waistcoat – c.1790
- 10P (1964.061.009) – Wool coat with cut metal buttons – c.1790
- 11P (1964.061.003) – Black silk coat – c.1790s
- 12P (1964.061.006) – Silk coat – c.1790
- 18P (1964.061.004) – Wool breeches – 1842
- 19P (1964.061.007) – Black wool coat – c.1790s
- 10PA (1964.061.015) – Striped Dressing Gown – c.1790s
- S149 (1964.061.029) – Red leather slippers – undated
1790s seems to be the overall date suggested by the museum but from the study of the patterns taken from the coats so far, it would seem more that we are looking at 2 or 3 phases of construction dates. Possibly an earlier 1780s ish date, the odd random coat possibly being made and then the later 1790s date.
3P
Only partially studied.
The museum has termed this colour ‘Olive’ but we think ‘Snot green’ might be more appropriate.
Interesting Details:
- Top stitching parallel to CF but beyond the buttons – similar to 19P
- More info to follow
4P:
Currently unstudied
5P:
Currently unstudied
6P:
Currently unstudied
7P:
Currently unstudied
8P:
Currently unstudied
9P:
Currently unstudied
10P:
One of the constant themes with this collection is the striking colours or bold details that have been chosen. The buttons on this wool coat are a prime example of this.
Interesting Details:
- Cut metal buttons of a striking nature
- Cuff size: 4 3/4″ depth at back, 4″ depth at front and a designed overhang of about 3/4″
- Pocket flap depth = 4 1/4″
11P:
Two of the coats listed in the inventory have been labelled as possibly ‘Clerical’ and this is one of those two coats. This one is made from a black, fairly study and 
functional silk with very standard making techniques for the period, and in line with similar practises found on some of the other coats within this collection (though will also interesting differences…)
Interesting Details include:
- the lining inside was quite shattered and broken, revealing a lot of the inner workings.
- Cuff Depth – 41/8″ at the CF and growing to 4 1/2″ at the back.
12P:
We called this ‘off aubergine’ as the silk is faded in patches and looks EXACTLY like the colours that aubergines go as they begin to rot and going off. This was the first coat we studied from the collection. The details we first studied on this coat are almost exactly the same on each of the coats that belonged to the Rev. John Parkinson.
Interesting Details Include:
- Cuff depth – 4″ at the front and 4 1/2″ at the back
